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18-12-2011, 04:02 PM
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Painting beside tables white
Hi All
Ok im going to attempt my first DYI, painting my pine bedside tables white and replacing the handles
The bedside tables do have a slight colour on them, so will need to sand that off, so do I do this by hand or will i need to do it with a sander? And which grade sandpaper do i use.
I want to paint them a gloss white, which white shall i use and do i need to do an undercoat first?
Do i handbrush them white or spray paint them white?
Here is a picture of the tables, the next pic is sort of the look i want , was thinking of cyrstal ****s what do you think.
And also attached is the bed ive purchased
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18-12-2011, 04:32 PM
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Hi TiffanyJane,
I have painted quite a few pieces white recently. The bedside table for my Son was already gloss white (but very shabby) and I just sanded it back by hand with not too fine, but not too heavy grit paper (can't remember the number). For this one I didn't undercoat as it was already gloss, and just used a spray can gloss enamel. This will, however, yellow over time.
For 2 book shelves and a desk that were all previously stained and varnished, I used the same grit paper by hand (with a sanding block) and most importantly, Zinsser BIN stain blocking primer. This unsures that any previous stain will not bleed through the fresh paintwork. Has your pine bed side table been stained and varnished, or is it raw wood? Either way, I would highly recommend Zinsser BIN Primer first. For these 3 pieces, I used a satin acrylic white paint that will not yellow over time, and I hand brushed 2 coats on. It's not absolutely perfect, but I couldn't be bothered learning to use the spray gun...and I actually find painting relaxing! Acrylic (water based) is so much easier to use than enamel (oil based), and no nasty fumes or hours and hours of drying and hardening time. With acrylic I could recoat in 2 hours, not 24.
Here are the before and afters of one bookshelf (acrylic hand painted):
One desk (acrylic hand painted):
cont......
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18-12-2011, 04:41 PM
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...cont.
...and 1 bedside table which had already been painted in white enamel, but needed some sprucing up as it was a bit battered and filthy (doesn't show up in the photo). Spray can gloss enamel, about 3 coats and no undercoat needed:
The other piece I have done is a taller book case like the first one I posted, but I haven't any photos yet. Took me 2 days to complete. 1 day for sanding, washing and spraying 2 coats of primer on, and the 2nd day for 2 coats of hand brushed satin acrylic. Very easy. With the 3 stained and varnished pieces, there has been no lifting or colour seepage of old stain through the white paint.
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18-12-2011, 04:44 PM
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thanks Stormy, sounds great and your pieces look stunning, its amazing the difference in the before and after, yes my tables did have a stain, and im glad i can do it by hand as thats what i was hoping. well this looks like my project for the new year. Thank you so much im now inspired.
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18-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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Just make sure you use the Zinsser BIN primer! I bought mine in a spray can (about $17 from Bunnings), but it will save heart ache a few months down the track when the stain starts coming through the paintwork if you don't use it! I actually used about 3 coats of this to get a fairly even coverage, as it's a very thin paint and if it's applied too heavily in the one spot it will run! You can buy it in tins, but I found the spray can easy, just don't go over the same spot too often before underneath is dry! Several lighter coats work best!
Crystal k.n.o.b.s will look beautiful! Looking forward to hearing how you go! Hubby reckons the sand paper we have is about 120 grit.
I love doing things like this, and it is amazing how different a piece can look with a fresh coat of paint and some new hardware! I'm seriously considering painting my bed, 2 bedsides and tall boy in the bedroom all white....
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18-12-2011, 06:20 PM
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I agree with all Stormy's advice Tiffanyjane  . Especially the Zinsser BIN primer - amazing stuff and essential. Oil paint will give you a smoother finish but it is such a pain to use. There is these aquaenamel paints that are oil based but can be cleaned up in water. I have never used them before but it might be worth considering. Then think of what type of finish you want - gloss, satin or matt. The French/Hamptons looks great with a Matt paint.
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19-12-2011, 04:37 PM
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Love your work Stormy!!!!! And your advice. T.J with that advice you can't go wrong can't wait to see what you come up with...
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05-01-2012, 09:32 AM
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hello stormy i went to bunnings last night to look at paint, which brand paint did you use and what was the cost?The lady at bunnings said a litre can should do me just fine for the bedside cabinets.
Also what sort of a paintbrush did you use and the width, Dont want to get one where all the bristles fall out?
Thanks in advance
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05-01-2012, 10:34 AM
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Iv actually also considered doing this with my timber bedroom furniture Tiff, although i dont know if it is possible because my timber is stained and then lacquered and the lacquer is starting to peel? If I sand this is it still going to work?
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05-01-2012, 10:58 AM
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Hi Tiffany I always use Dulux as I know it is good quality. But so are lots of other brands. We have painted our furniture in a matt/flat paint to give it a chalky finish. This makes it look more traditional so might not suit your taste. I would suggest a Satin finish - like the satin finish you get on cabinet doors.
As far as a brush buy the best you can get. I tend to use a brush that is around 9-10cm wide. Small enough to get into small areas but wide enough to brush out the lines that form in the paint.
Amanda if you sand or strip of the lacquer you can paint the furniture. But you need to remove it all. I would suggest some citrus paint stripper and steel wool will remove it easily enough. But be sure to use the primer Zinsser Bin so the wood tannins don't leak through. Good luck
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